Getting an early start

Spring is only six weeks away. That means it is time to start seeds indoors for transplanting into the garden. Depending on which reference you use, our average last frost date should be somewhere between March 28 and April 4. Remember this is Texas weather we are talking about so caveat emptor.

Many gardeners feel that by utilizing transplants rather than direct seeding they get a head start on crop production. We may find, however, that the variety of plant we want is not commercially available. In order to get around this problem, seeds can be started indoors from any variety for which we can purchase seeds. For example, a seed catalog may offer as many as 30 or 40 tomato varieties, but a garden center may only offer six to ten. It is just not economically feasible for the garden center to offer transplants of 40 different varieties of tomatoes.

In order to germinate seeds indoors and to develop them into transplants, their basic needs of water, heat, nutrients and light must be supplied. Containers for starting seeds need not be complicated or expensive. Recycled containers from the kitchen or paper cups can be used. Any container that is at least three inches deep, has a hole punched or drilled into its bottom and will hold at least about a half cup of seed-starting mix will do nicely.

The growing mix should be sterile to prevent spreading diseases to the young seedlings. A growing medium that is garden soil based needs to be sterilized in the oven (messy and smelly). Many growers recommend a soilless mixture instead. A medium consisting of only vermiculite has been recommended, but more frequently a mix of 50 percent vermiculite or perlite and 50 percent sphagnum moss, peat or coir is suggested. The medium should be well mixed and moistened. The medium is placed in the growing pot to within three-quarters of an inch of the rim. Seeds are placed on the surface and covered with straight vermiculite or starting

mix. Be sure to consult the seed packet for the exact planting depth instructions. Since some seeds require light to germinate (lettuce, parsley, coleus, impatiens among others) they may not need to be covered but just pressed into the soil’s surface.

The pot containing the planted seeds is placed in a flat container with about a half inch of water added. The pot is allowed to soak up as much water as it will from the bottom and then allowed it to drain. ›Newly planted pots should be sealed into a plastic bag or covered with plastic wrap to conserve the moisture. Do not allow the growing medium to dry out, but conversely do not allow it to become waterlogged. The simplest method of watering that will not damage the sprouting seeds is to continue bottom watering allowing the pot to drain fully after watering. ›

Most seeds will germinate at the temperature at which many of us keep our homes. Placing pots on a heating mat maximizes germination. After the seeds sprout and break the surface, the pots should be removed from the plastic bag or the plastic wrap should be removed. ›

After the seedlings have developed a set of true leaves (the first leaves formed are not true leaves), they can be watered with a fertilizer solution prepared at one-half the strength recommended in the instructions. Plants that have developed at least two pairs of true leaves can be transplanted into larger containers or into the garden if the weather permits. ›

Most often a simple window is not sufficient to supply the light necessary for growth. Supplemental light can be provided by fluorescent lights. Using one warm-white and one cool-white bulb in a shop light fixture will suffice. Light should be supplied for 14 to 16 hours a day from the sun and/or artificial light.